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When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.