Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
